Crypts and Cathedrals {Palermo} Sicily

January 02, 2014

Crypts and Cathedrals {Palermo} Sicily

“The traveler sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.” – G.K. Chesterton

Within the heart of Sicily's capital city of Palermo there lies a treasure trove of antique stores, creepy crypts and cathedrals centuries older than our oldest structures in the US. The jammed city streets, laundry hanging from every balcony, and horse and buggies competing for right of way on narrow roads that went from five lane to one without rhyme or reason, created a sense of crowd and chaos that I hadn't yet experienced in Sicily. It was hustle and bustle but all centered around marbled piazzas and holy structures that reached stories above the pedestrian walkways to create silhouettes against the sky. Aaron's most-excellent driving skills got us through the melee. If it had been me behind the wheel, I would have turned around after the first horse and buggy sped my way.

The crowning jewel of the day was truly the late lunch we had at Osteria dei Vespri on the Piazza Croce dei Vespri, a "foodie" recommendation by Fodor's guide that we hustled to find, lest they were closing for "siesta" as most restaurants and shops do in Sicily. And boy was it worth it! I had thus far been dealt only so-so meals set against my quite high expectations, but this place met and exceeded those. Delicate hand-crafted ravioli and crusty bread better than I'd had yet. House red wine set on carafes at every table. Red checked tablecloths that should have been cheesy and cliche but instead were perfect enveloped by the warm smells of garlic and the murmur of Italian conversation. We each chose the three course, though he went for antipasti, pasta and dessert and I went for pasta, main and dessert. The pasta was the point, though, and I could have eaten my fill on that. Dessert was warm pastries filled with a creamy, sweet ricotta and dusted with powdered sugar. Delizioso!

Cattedrale di Palermo

every cathedral had a nativity scene, reminding me that it was, indeed, Christmas.

the crypts below Cattedrale di Palermo

this church of no name (that I could find) was almost pitch black inside. But if it had been better lit, oh the ceiling art that would have been revealed!